How to see the Cambodian temples at Angkor at their best, in spite of the crowds.
Angkor Archaeological Park is home to hundreds of temples as well as villages,
schools and farmland. Just as a millennium ago, Angkor is a vast area where
people live and work. Glimpses of rural Cambodian life – immaculately
uniformed children walking to school and their parents working the fields –
offer humble interludes between temple visits.
Its centrepiece is Angkor Wat, Cambodia's best-preserved and beloved temple.
Originally dedicated to the Hindu god Vishnu, it has remained a place of
worship since its foundation. Thought to be a miniature replica of the
universe, its towers, moats and concentric walls reveal an architectural
sophistication, and the bas-relief with their plump figures and triumphal
battle scenes reflect a healthy, wealthy period of history.
Elsewhere, in the park, some of the most elegant carvings can be found at
Banteay Srei temple, decorated with sensuous celestial dancers. Ta Phrom is
one of the most photographed temples, deliberately left mostly unrestored,
and tangled and strangled by undergrowth, branches and roots.
The perennial favourite is the Bayon temple at Angkor Thom whose towers – like
at Banteay Chhmar – are etched with enlightened bodhisattva faces. The Bayon
is also decorated with enchanting bas-relief depicting ordinary Khmer life
rather than the Hindu mythology seen at most other temples.

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